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The Different Colours of Gold: A Comprehensive Guide

Gold has always been the most sought after precious metal. Whether for jewellery making, use as a currency or for the crowns of the powerful. While pure 24 karat gold has a rich yellow hue, gold can be alloyed with different metals to create a range of beautiful colours. The different colours of gold have their own unique characteristics, advantages, and challenges. In this post, we’ll explore the four most common types of coloured gold, followed by a discussion on the rarer and more unusual varieties.

 

1. Yellow Gold

rings on a finger demonstrating the different colours of gold

Alloy Composition:

Yellow gold is typically an alloy of pure gold mixed with copper and silver. Common alloys include:

  • 18K Yellow Gold: 75% gold, 12.5% copper, and 12.5% silver
  • 14K Yellow Gold: 58.5% gold, with added copper and silver for strength
  • 10K Yellow Gold: 42% gold, less than half gold with the remainder made up of copper and silver

Pros:

  • Classic and timeless: Yellow gold has been used in jewellery for centuries, making it a traditional choice.
  • Malleability: Yellow gold is easy for jewellers to work with, allowing for intricate designs and easy re-sizing.
  • Skin-friendly: It is less likely to cause allergic reactions compared to white gold containing nickel.

Cons:

  • Softness: Yellow gold, particularly in higher karats, can be more prone to scratching or misshaping.

Gemstones that complement Yellow Gold:

Yellow gold pairs beautifully with warm-toned gemstones such as:

  • Rubies
  • Emeralds
  • Citrine
  • Garnets

2. White Gold

Alloy Composition:

White gold is made by mixing pure gold with metals like nickel or palladium. Nickel white gold is often coated with rhodium for a bright, reflective finish. The nickel white gold alloys that we use at Posy Fine Jewellery are bright white and do not require rhodium plating.

  • 18K White Gold: 75% gold, mixed with nickel or palladium
  • 14K White Gold: 58.5% gold, with the remainder being nickel or palladium
  • 10K White Gold: 42% gold, less than half gold with the remainder made up of nickel or palladium

Pros:

  • Modern and sleek: White gold’s cool appearance is often seen as more contemporary and understated than yellow gold.
  • Durability: White gold is harder and more resistant to scratches, especially when alloyed with nickel.

Cons:

  • Allergies: Nickel white gold can cause allergic reactions in some people.
  • Rhodium plating: The rhodium finish can wear off over time, requiring re-plating to maintain its lustre.
  • Working Properties: Some white gold alloys such as 18k white gold are very brittle and difficult to work with.

Gemstones that complement White Gold:

White gold pairs well with cooler gemstones such as:

  • Diamonds
  • Sapphires
  • Amethyst
  • Aquamarine

3. Rose Gold

Alloy Composition:

Rose gold is a blend of pure gold and copper, which gives it a pinkish hue.

  • 18K Rose Gold: 75% gold, 25% copper
  • 14K Rose Gold: 58.5% gold, with the remainder copper
  • 10K Rose Gold: 42% gold, with more than half of the alloy being made of copper

Pros:

  • Romantic and vintage appeal: Rose gold has a warm, rosy tone that evokes a sense of romance and vintage charm.
  • Durability: Copper is a strong metal, which makes rose gold more durable and resistant to wear than yellow gold.

Cons:

  • Potential for tarnish: The copper in rose gold can oxidize over time, especially in a lower karat, giving the jewellery a patina that some people may not like.
  • Allergic reactions: People with sensitivities to copper may experience skin irritation.

Gemstones that complement Rose Gold:

Rose gold looks stunning with gemstones that have warm or earthy tones, including:

  • Morganite
  • Pink sapphires
  • Tourmaline
  • Pink Spinel

4. Green Gold

Alloy Composition:

Green gold, also known as electrum, is a natural alloy of gold and silver.

  • 14K Green Gold: 58.5% gold, with the remainder silver
  • 10K Green Gold: 42% gold, with over half of the alloy being made of silver

Pros:

  • Unique appearance: Green gold has a subtle, pale green tint that is very distinctive.
  • Skin-friendly: It is generally non-allergenic.

Cons:

  • Softness: Green gold is softer, especially in a higher karat, and more prone to scratching or misshaping than other alloys.
  • Subtle colour: The green hue is not very intense, which can make it less noticeable.

Gemstones that complement Green Gold:

Green gold complements cool or earthy coloured gemstones, such as:

  • Peridot
  • Emerald
  • Green tourmaline
  • Cognac diamonds

 

 

Nickel White Gold vs. Palladium White Gold

Nickel White Gold:

  • Composition: Nickel white gold is created by alloying gold with nickel.
  • Pros: It’s harder than palladium white gold and is less expensive. The nickel content gives it strength, making it ideal for settings that need to hold stones securely.
  • Cons: The nickel content can cause allergic reactions in people with sensitive skin, and the rhodium plating (if applied) may need to be reapplied as it wears off over time.

Palladium White Gold:

  • Composition: Palladium white gold is alloyed with palladium, a platinum-group metal.
  • Pros: It is hypoallergenic and does not require rhodium plating. It has a slightly greyer undertone than nickel white gold.
  • Cons: It is more expensive due to the higher cost of palladium.

 

Rare and Unusual Colours of Gold

1. Blue Gold

  • Alloy Composition: Blue gold is made by alloying gold with indium or gallium. Another method involves creating a gold-iron alloy and subjecting it to heat treatment to create a blue oxide layer.
  • Why it isn’t popular: The blue hue can be brittle and is only present on the surface, making it unsuitable for everyday wear. The rarity of materials like indium and the complexity of production also make blue gold expensive.
  • Challenges: Blue gold tends to be fragile and more prone to damage compared to other gold alloys.

2. Purple Gold

  • Alloy Composition: Purple gold is a compound of gold and aluminium (referred to as an intermetallic compound).
  • Why it isn’t popular: Purple gold is extremely brittle, making it impractical for creating durable jewellery pieces. It’s more commonly used as an accent in jewellery designs rather than for full rings or necklaces.
  • Challenges: Due to its fragility, purple gold can shatter under pressure, limiting its practical use in fine jewellery.

Alloy Matching Different Colours of Gold

As with any recipe, sometimes the ingredients are changed up a bit depending on the cook. This applies to metal alloys as well. So, sometimes, you may have two pieces of jewellery that are both 14k yellow gold but are slightly different in hue. The same is possible for the other colours of gold as well.

Trends and Different Colours of Gold

The different colours of gold come in and out of fashion. While yellow gold will forever be a staple, the other colours are more subject to fashion trends. For the past ten years or so rose gold has seen its popularity rise. Before that it was white gold. As with all trends, gold colour preferences seem to cycle through every decade or so.

Another trend that is popular is mixing and matching different colours of gold jewellery together. It used to be that wearing two different colours of gold together was a no-no. Often people would pick their gold colour preference and only purchase jewellery in that colour. Now, people are more open to mixing different colours of gold together whether in stacking rings, layering necklaces or even in engagement and wedding bands!

 

For most people, the colour of gold they choose for their jewellery tends to be what they feel suits them best. If you still have some questions that we haven’t answered here please do reach out. Or visit us in or Toronto studio. We’re here to help!

author avatar
Suzanne Co-Owner
Suzanne is one of the founders of Posy Fine Jewellery. She received a bachelor’s degree in Fine Art and Anthropology from the University of Toronto before training as a goldsmith at George Brown College.

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